Cheapest Factory Amico Brass Strainer for Slovakia Factory
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Originally recorded October 4, 2014.
My old GE motor-driven circulator pump for the basement zone had been leaking for a couple years. It was likely original to the boiler (mid 1970′s). Last year the pump started leaking so bad I had to put a bucket under it and empty it first every 3 days, then every 2, and finally every day.
It was long past due to be replaced. Picked up this very common Taco circulator for about $85. Installation was very straightforward, if it weren’t for all the pitfalls along the way.
First, the leak from the old pump had rusted the bolts in place. Second, there was not much room to work. Third, I had to drain the system. Fourth, the wire was just barely long enough. I’m sure there’s more as well.
Problem # 3, draining the system, of course means it needs to be refilled. For some reason this boiler does not refill enough to allow me to bleed all the air out of the system. Therefore, I have to “backfill” or “backfeed” the system using a garden hose to force more water in.
That normally wouldn’t be a problem, if it weren’t for the drain valve which is shot and leaky. I need to use a cap to prevent leaks since it won’t shut off completely, and the packing nut comes loose when the handle is turned, so it will leak from there as well unless tightened up.
It’s a hassle, to say the least. But as for the actual installation of the pump itself, pretty simple. If the installation included ball valves before and after the pump, the pump could be swapped out at the first sign of trouble, without the need to drain the system, and only introducing a very small amount of air which would easily be bled out.
Eventually the entire boiler will need to be replaced, and, provided I get someone who can actually do the job I ask, and properly, this won’t be a problem again.
This is just a quick guide on how to find #1 TDC and align the distributor correctly.
A very easy thing to get wrong for first timers.